Planted Aquarium FAQ's >> General Aquarium FAQ's >>
Q. What type of substrate is best for the planted aquarium? How deep should it be?
A: While there is no absolute answer to this question, substrates that are porous and have an average size of 2-3 mm. will work best. If the substrate is too fine, there is a risk that it will pack down too tightly and create dead areas. If the substrate is too coarse, small areas will develop that trap waste and create pockets of decay. While smooth surface substrate will not allow proper root attachment, a porous surface allows good root attachment and helps to anchor the plant in place. Generally you will want 3 inches of substrate, though this could be terraced to provide different depths in the aquarium. Large plants could even be placed in “flower” pots buried in the substrate. This last method can be used to add plants to an already established aquarium that does not have the proper depth or type of substrate.
Q. How can I add a substrate fertilizer to my established aquarium?
A: Substrate fertilizers/trace element products come in two varieties of applications. Pre-mix and “as needed”. The pre-mix versions are designed to be mixed with the gravel before the aquarium is set up and placed on the bottom of the tank. Then you cover this mix with another 2-3 inches of standard substrate. This type obviously does not lend itself well to addition after the initial set up. It could be mixed with gravel placed in a pot and the pot then added to the tank to provide localized fertilization for new plants. Otherwise we need to use one of the as-needed types. Most of these are available as a tablet or cone that is simply pushed into the substrate near the root system of the plants. Most are designed to cover an area approximately 6 inches in diameter for up to 3 months.
Q. My plant arrived and it is in a little plastic pot with a fiber material surrounding the roots. Should I remove the plant from the pot?
A: There is no single answer for this question. With many plants, the roots may already be growing out of the pot and removing the pot would be too disruptive to the delicate root structure. Also, the plant, especially a Sword plant, has already established ground level for the crown. If removed from the pot, it is easy to accidentally bury the crown in the substrate, which can smother the plant. It may be beneficial to take a pair of scissors and cut out a few of the slats in the plastic pot to allow further root development. You will also want to trim about ½” from the tips of the roots before planting. With “bunch” style plants or types of Val, it will be better to remove the plant from the pot. Gently cut away the plastic pot with shape scissors and then carefully peel away the fiber material from the base/roots of the plants. Gently untangle the mass of roots and individually place the plants in the substrate.
Q. My Sword plant was beautiful when it arrived last week, but now many of the larger leaves are dying. What went wrong?
A: Most likely nothing has gone terribly wrong. When larger plants like this are transported, the outer, mature leaves are sometime damaged with handling. Also, some of the root structure will also be damaged during the move. This results in fewer nutrients for the damaged leaves, so the plant will “shed” these mature leaves and start development of new leaves. This can result in a stubby looking plant for a few days, but eventually it will get back to normal. It is best to prune any damaged leaves immediately to stimulate the growth of new leaves. If this problem had occurred after several weeks, it could indicate a nutritional deficiency, and new growth would be stunted. Addition of proper nutrients and trace elements would help eliminate the problem.
Q. How long should I leave my lights on?
A: Most aquarium plants are found in the tropical regions and are therefore used to a 10 to 14 hour daylight period (photoperiod). You can arrange your “sunrise” to be at 9 A.M. if you like so you can still enjoy the aquarium during the evening hours.
Q. How often should I change my fluorescent lights? Mine are about 2 years old.
A: It is safe to say that your fluorescent bulbs are well past their “useful” lifespan of 10 to 14 months. While the bulbs will light for several years, they lose over 50% of their intensity after this time period. In a multi-bulb set up, it is best to stagger the replacement of the bulbs to avoid a too abrupt change in intensity.
Q. If I add CO2 to the aquarium, will I decrease the O2 content?
A: The concentrations of carbon dioxide and oxygen are independent of one another. Adding carbon dioxide will not drive out oxygen, though the addition of carbon dioxide above 30 PPM can have adverse effects on the fish. Normal concentrations for optimal plant growth are between 10 to 20 PPM. With normal water movement, the oxygen content will be about 8 PPM, though during the daytime, release of oxygen by the plants can lead to a higher oxygen concentration. During the dark period, plants will uptake oxygen, and if modest water movement is not present, this could lead to levels too low to maintain fish life. Sometimes it is beneficial to add an air pump and air stone during the dark cycle to prevent this problem. During the day we like to minimize the surface movement to increase the carbon dioxide levels for the plants.
Q. I see references to T-8 and T-12 when reading about fluorescent bulbs. What does this mean?
A: For arcane reasons, fluorescent light bulb diameters are measured in units of 1/8th of an inch. Therefore a T-8 bulb has eight units of 1/8” giving it a total of a one inch diameter, while the T-12 will have 12 units, for a total of a 1 ½” diameter. Recent federal mandates are getting most manufacturers to convert to T-8 bulbs. In the past, most 24” and 48” bulbs were T-12, while 15” and 36” bulbs were T-8. One advantage to the T-8 bulb is the fact that because of the reduced diameter, the gases inside the bulb are heated to a higher temperature and produce more intensity per watt of energy than the T-12 bulbs. A 48” T-8 bulb at 36 W will actually produce more light than a 48” T-12 40W bulb, a savings of over 10 percent.
Q. What is a good temperature range for the planted aquarium?
A: Most plants will do fine between 72 to 80 F. If you need to keep the temperature higher (Discus tank), certain plants will do better; Swords, Anubias, Vals, Rotala, Java Fern or Onion plant.
Q. How much lighting do I need for my aquarium?
A: Depending on the type of lighting, the rule of thumb can vary. If you are using standard fluorescent lights, usually 1 ½ to 2 watts per gallon will be fine for most plants. If the aquarium is especially deep, more than 24 inches, then you might want to use 2 to 3 watts per gallon. If you are using the PowerCompact fluorescent lighting, 1 to 2 watts per gallon will cover most applications. If the aquarium is large with an open top design and pendant metal halide lighting, figure each fixture will cover an area 24 x 24 inches, though do to the spotlight nature of the bulb, will be more intense in the middle of this zone. Generally a 175 Watt bulb will cover the 24 x 24” area.
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